Wood floor sanding and restoration

As long as it’s a wooden floor we can usually sand it — pine boards, oak, parquet, mosaics, herringbone. If it’s been under carpet for years, send a photograph or give us a ring. Laminate can’t be sanded at all. Engineered board depends on how much wear layer is left.

Lagler machines with 98–100% dust extraction, running through a Bona DCS70. After we’ve packed the van we vacuum the area and wipe down everything — including dust that was there before we arrived.

Loose pine boards re-fixed and nails punched down. Damaged boards repaired or replaced with new or reclaimed to match. Concrete fireplaces knocked out and replaced with matching timber, joints staggered. Loose parquet and mosaic blocks re-stuck — mosaics often lift at the edges where the gripper was nailed in.

Clean dust from the machine mixed with resin and spread over the floor — that gives the right colour. On pine boards the filler can fall out over time if the gaps are large and not tongue-and-groove. Then we use a mastic between the boards, which stops draughts and moves with the floor, or a V-shaped plastic strip pushed into the gap.

Lacquers are the hardest wearing — domestic and commercial grade, matt, satin or gloss. They sit on top of the floor. Oils and waxes enhance the grain and can be repaired in patches more easily, but need a bit more looking after. Hard-wax oils give the look of an oil with more wear. We use Bona, Junckers, Loba and Osmo, put on at the correct rates.

Yes. Colours on sample boards, or when we’re sanding I can try a few samples on the actual floor then sand them off.

The biggest killer of floors is grit — regular hoovering and sweeping. I can supply a maintenance kit made for the finish we’ve put on; shop cleaners are often too aggressive. Use as little water as possible. Lacquered floors in busy rooms can take a light sand and re-seal every few years. Waxes can be deep-cleaned and a coat buffed on. Oiled floors can be lightly sanded and re-oiled.